Navaratri or Nava Ratri…is literally translated as Nine Nights! Different parts of India celebrate Navratri according to their own age-old practices and rituals, Garba and Dandiya in Gujarat, Durga Pooja in Kolkata and other neighboring parts, Mata ki Chowki and Jagraatas in the north.
Memories dodge me to a time when preparations for Navratri in my home began almost a month before the actual festivities. Meticulous cleaning (literally turning the house upside down) was the order of the day for good one week prior to the nine day festival. I remember the cleaning would be done by our maid, her 3 children and a 2 other helpers, while mom would oversee their work, it was my job to get completely drenched and entertain everyone around, of course I wasn’t spared from cleaning either (usually the internal windows and my study table)!
The nine day festival is followed by Dassera and then Diwali, so this was a yearly cleaning of the house to welcome all gods and goddesses to come bless us and make place in our homes (especially Lakshmiji…the goddess of wealth …LOL)!!
As a south Indian Tamilian tradition we would display the “Golu-padi” (Doll Steps, if you really want it to be translated and “Golu” for short). These steps are custom built and usually in an odd number, either 3, 5 ,7, 9, 11 etc. I realized later in life, after I got inducted into other religious practices that decorating and displaying the Golu was much like putting up a Christmas tree. The family comes together in all the activities, the men folk erect these steps, women and children decorate it and place various idols and dolls on display. The interesting part about these dolls is that, it is usually a heirloom, passed down from generations. My mom had one such collection of over 250 or more dolls of various sizes and shapes. Depictions of various mythological stories like Dashatavtaar (Vishnu’s avtaars), Seeta Kalyanam (Seeta’s wedding as part of Ramamyan), Geetouppadesh (Krishna’s discourse to Arjuna on the battle field) and other mythological characters like Ganesh, Hanuman, Shiva, and a variety of Hindu gods and goddesses were all part of this assortment. 
One of the steps also had idols of Mr. Chettiar and his wife (businessmen community of the south) with a whole array of products that they pretended to be selling (just like in a supermarket). As if 250 or more dolls were not enough, it was also tradition to buy one new doll each year and keep adding on to the collection! The “golu” display at my place eventually stopped after I left for further studies and the dolls were distributed among friends and family.
It doesn’t just end with the “golu” display! The actual Navratri fun begins with inviting women and children to come home for a haldi-kumkum (turmeric and vermilion) ritual. A light dab of Attar (perfume) or chandan (sandalwood paste) would be first applied to their wrist, they were given flowers to adorn, a dot of haldi and kumkum powders were applied on their foreheads and finally they were given a return gift! The return gift usually comprised of 2 pan leaves (beetlenut leaves), a packet of supari (flavored Beetle nut), dried turmeric and a bag full of goodies like a plastic comb, mirror, a small stainless steel bowl or box, some bindi, maybe bangles, etc. As time passed on, these return gifts were replaced with clothes like saree blouse piece or even a saree or salwar suit piece (for very close friends and relatives). These purchases were made by mom almost 3 weeks in advance and carefully gift wrapped. For each of these nine days, every day one Sumangali (married woman) and one Kanya (young girl) would be called for an elaborate lunch at home! And of course the best part was reciprocation! As a kid I got to go as a Kanya to many such lunches and came back home delighted with bag full of goodies!! In the evening again visiting other “golus” and being a part of “haldi-kumkum” ceremonies in the neighborhood was part and parcel of these nine days!
The real highlight for me though was the “Prasad” (offering to god) made during these nine days (had to be food for me, c’mon!!!). Tamilians make a special offering from legumes and lentils called “Sundal”. Nine different types of legumes and lentils, one for each day! They usually are Green Moong beans, Brown Moong beans, Chickpeas, Dried Peas, Peanuts, Chana dal, Butter beans and Kidney beans! Sundal is made by pressure cooking these legumes / lentils and later tempering them with oil, mustard seeds, whole red chilies, curry leaves, hing (asafetida), grated fresh coconut and my dearest chopped Cilantro with a dash of lime! In the south of India, these Sundals during Navratri are so popular that everyone knows who makes the best type of Sundal in town / village. My dad tells me tales of his childhood days where it was common for him as a young boy, along with his friends to visit houses of various Mamis (common name for Tamilian ladies) only on those days when that Mami was making a particular Sundal. So if Mami X was famous for her Pattani Sundal (dried peas), they would go to her place only on the day she made Pattani Sundal and likewise for all the other Mamis in town!! He still laughs about it while I roll my eyes ~ genetics never go wrong, I’M GENETICALLY A FOODIE!! :D
As years have passed by, these events just remain a distant but very plesant memory! On the occasion of Navratri, here is my favorite Kadalai Sundal (Chickpeas) recipe for all of you to try, just like how mom used to make it and she was surely famous for her Kadalai Sundal ;)
Ingredients:
1 cup white chickpeas, soaked overnight
¼ tsp oil
½ tsp mustard seeds
1 tsp urad dal (split black gram dal)
1-2 tsp red chili flakes
1 tsp of coarsely ground coriander seeds (this is unique to mom’s recipe)
½ tsp hing (asafetida)
A few curry leaves
2-3 tbsp freshly grated coconut
salt to taste
A dash of lime
A handful of cilantro leaves finely chopped
Method:
Pressure cook legumes for about 2 whistles (about 10 minutes). Legumes need to have a soft texture, but retain their shape.
Alternatively, cook it on a stove top for about 15 - 20 mins. Drain the cooking water.
In a pan, add oil, when hot add the mustard seeds and let them pop. Add hing, urad dal, curry leaves and red chili flakes and corriander powder. Wait until lentils turn reddish brown in color.
Add cooked chickpeas. Add salt and mix it well.
Take it off the heat, add coconut, lime juice and chopped cilantro. This Sundal is usually served warm.
Happy Navratri and a very Happy cooking J
